Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan

From Dushanbe it was a bone-shaking 17 hour drive along the worst road we have so far encountered, we eventually reached Khorog at 2 o'clock in the morning. From here we spent three days hiking in the Geisev valley, a lush green oasis only accessible by foot, containing three tiny villages, one of which consisted only of one family. Remarkably even here there was someone who spoke english.

We then took a three day road trip through the remote and beautiful Wakhan Valley, which is shared with the Afghanistan enabling us to peer across the valley at the afghan farmers going about their business.

As we continued along the Pamir Highway to Murghab the scenery changed abruptly from lush green valleys to dusty barren desert-like landscape. Once in Murghab we trekked over a pass to our first yurtstay conveniently situated by some hot springs. On our return to Murghab we managed to meet up with Andy Davis, which was wonderfully random given the fact that there was no internet or phone reception.

From here it was a gruelling but spectacular 14 hour jeep ride over the Ak-baital pass (4,655m) into Kyrgyzstan. We were particularly pleased with ourselves as this time we stood firm at the border crossing and refused to pay the bribe. In Bishkek we celebrated Ross' birthday in style, splashing out on a mid-range hotel (which even had a swimming pool!) and a gourmet italian meal (they even had italian wine!).

Since then we have spent our time in the mountains and lakes both horse riding from yurt to yurt across the wonderful green jailoos and trekking in the alpine valleys around Karakol. The one black cloud that remains is the issue of our chinese visa. Will we get it or won't we......who knows! We'll update you on our next blog.